Chainmaille Jewelry

CHAINMAILLE (also known as chainmail, or simply maille) is typically armor or jewelry made by connecting metal rings to one another to create various patterns. The word maille derives from the French word maille (mesh), which comes from Latin macula (mesh of a net). Although most historical chainmaille is armor, jewelry techniques also were used by cultures as diverse as the Vikings and the ancient Egyptians.

The rings are made by coiling wire around a mandrel and then cutting them. This creates a ring that has a gap the thickness of the saw blade with the ends offset by the diameter of the wire. Using pliers, the rings are linked—one at a time—into a pattern.

Chainmaille can be made from virtually any material that can be formed into a circle. This includes various types of metals, including aluminum, brass, bronze, copper, stainless steel and silver, as well nontraditional jewelry materials such as rubber. By dipping certain metals in electrically charged solutions and varying the voltage—a process known as anodizing—dazzling colors can be created. Niobium and titanium are anodized this way, while aluminum is prepared, then dyed.

There are more than 900 known patterns currently documented by M.A.I.L. (Maille Artisans International League). Most are modifications of basic patterns, but each is distinct.

I like to make a variety of jewelry, such as bracelets and necklaces, in styles to suit both men and women, using many different chainmaille patters. Sometimes other items are also incorporated, such as beads and leather.